I had a great session at Kletterzentrum Gaswerk (Climbing gym in Schlieren, West of Zurich) today – climbed more 6a, 6a+ than easier stuff for the first time and led half of them. About half way through, I had the insight that when you’re going for a higher grade, or a style of climb you find challenging, it’s better to use shorter routes to push yourself.
This way, you do a short pitch, make it to the top without resting, and feel good – you completed the route! While it’s basically the same as doing a really long route and resting half way up, it feels much better, and gives you more confidence for the next one.
Of course, now I’ve told you this, will it still work…